Lemon Pepper Chicken Cutlets

Chicken cutlets are one of the better arguments for taking a rolling pin to dinner. Pound the breasts to an even half-inch and suddenly they cook quickly, brown evenly, and stop giving you that annoying combination of dry edges and a thick center you are nervously staring at with a thermometer.

The breading is straightforward: flour, beaten egg, then panko mixed with lemon pepper seasoning. Press the panko on firmly instead of giving the chicken a polite little dusting. That coarse crumb is what turns crisp and golden in the skillet. Three to four minutes per side in olive oil is usually enough for half-inch cutlets, but the center still needs to reach 165°F. Color tells you the crust is ready; temperature tells you the chicken is. Move the cooked cutlets to a wire rack rather than stacking them on paper towels. Air underneath keeps the bottom crust from steaming itself soft while you finish the batch. Serve with lemon wedges and parsley, and squeeze the lemon on at the table so the crust gets brightness without sitting around soaking in juice. Crisp outside, juicy inside, sharp with pepper and citrus—the whole dinner has the attention span of about eight minutes, which is useful on a Tuesday.